By night, Phatpong is the most infamous red light district in the world, lit by garish neon and too loud with music from competing sex bars. Early mornings, though, it's shabby in the light. Curious tourists and the sex workers have long since left by the time this vendor arrives with his bike to sell to the locals. I am certain he's never seen a sex show, and may not even know what Phatpong looks like at midnight. He'll set up somewhere, unfurl his umbrella, and sell until it's time to go home to his family. Before dark. Living small.